Just about a block away from the Hyper-U in Bourgueil is Cafe Promenade, strung with naked colored light bulbs out front and in the back, under a grass shed roof are painted wooden tables that look like they could have been barn doors in their first life. We ordered “formulas” of fois gras sauted in butter, chunks of braised bacon, rabbit terrine and crushed chicken livers drunk with wine, then platters of cheeses from local sheep and cows so good, I had difficulty sharing, then 16 skewers of spiced chicken, seared duck breast, scallop with sausage and escargot, and finished with apple tart. Jean-Pierre treated us to Rose and Druet. The restauranteurs offered us a bottle of red from the 80’s. We couldn’t help ourselves but to start to sing. It can be tricky remembering the words to favorite songs in French, but we did it.
At 10:45 in the evening, it was still light. We wandered the winding streets home without passing a soul.