The ladies have been to Cortona for the view that sweeps from the walls of the city, down to the Duomo and below to Camucia, to Deruta for ceramics, to Montepulcino for Vino Nobile, Pienza for Pecorino, Sant’antimo, for the Gregorian chants, and in the kitchen every night to cook from the inside out. We have done our pork chops over the fire, barely touched our spinach and fresh ricotta gnocchi in our hands to make them into little orbs, and tasted cheeses, salami, savory pumpkin tarts, and a chocolate jonty that is a souffle, warm from the oven with the thinnest crust of fudge and an even thinner crust that cracks with the spoon as it sinks into the dish. With cream it is a little bit of mouth heaven.

Jairo has led them off to Citta di Castello for the open market. I always say my prayers that they find the road back.