I go all the way to the Redhook section of Brooklyn to go grocery shopping and I have one thing to say about it; God Bless Fairway Market. Normally when I walk past the fresh fruit section of a supermarket somewhere in July, and I get to say, the nectarines, I start cussing under my breath; little orbs of seemingly sumptious flesh purring of summer and crumbles, there for nothing more than to make a fool of you; rolling on their own into your hand, and whispering to you all the way home of cobblers, slumps, pandowdy’s, crisps or grunts that taste like YESTERDAY’S CARDBOARD if the fruit isn’t ripe. I’ve had enough of that noise. Can’t sell ripe fruit? Trucking got you down? Well, I don’t know, but yesterday, Fairway had it figured out. I was singing in the nectarine aisle. I was telling people I didn’t know from Adam that what they should be buying was the nectarines.
I wouldn’t care if a grocery store sent me an advertisement saying “listen up, the nectarines are getting picked as soon as they are perfectly, beautifully ripe on Tuesday morning, they are arriving on Tuesday afternoon, and Tuesday night, none of you people are touching and bruising, we are going hand them out in baskets.” Just don’t sell me fruit that has no business wearing a fruit suit.
If you can find the booty, here is what you do with it:
Slice up 7 cups of fruit. Mix it with 3 tablespoons of cubed butter, a one inch piece of lemon zest with the pith removed and 1/3 cup of sugar. Toss it together over medium high heat in a heavy wide pan until it starts to bubble, but the fruit is not cooked through. Pour into a 10 inch pan, removing the pith.
While it is still hot, drop your favorite biscuit dough by the spoonful over the top and sprinkle sugar or cinnamon sugar on top of that, baking it at 400 degrees. Serve with every so lightly whipped cream.

(For buiscits I like 2 cups of flour, 2 Tablespoons of sugar, 1 Tablespoon of baking powder, scant 1/2 teaspoon of salt, mixed with your hand, and then rub into that with your fingertips, 6 Tablespoons of cold, cold cubes of unsalted butter. Add about 2/3 cup of whole milk or half and half, stirring with your hand, until you don’t see anymore flour. It should be really thick, and not ease out at the sides at all from too much liquid.
the spoonful over the top and sprinkle sugar or cinnamon sugar on top of that, baking it at 400 degrees. Serve with every so lightly whipped cream