There is something about picking up a frozen block of white fleshed fish packed nice and tight into a styrofoam pack with lots of saran wrap and a stay fresh label that goes somewhere near Christmas, and watching the boat with the fish line up next to the restaurant, and then ordering whatever came of the boat. I went to Castiglione della Peschia yesterday, just before beach season officially starts, to lie on the beach and eat fish that can stand up on two fins and be proud to be a fish. We stayed in a really cheap hotel, but the beds were great and we over looked the ancient castle that towers over the town. As long as you forgo the weak coffee and old bread in the morning, you’re all right.
I love shellfish in the summer, and if you have garlic, olive oil, tiny little green mussels the size of quarters, some good crisp white wine, lemons and fresh oregano, you have everything but the spaghetti. Bring a pot of salted water to the boil for a pound of pasta. Heat the garlic, about three to four cloves finley chopped, ever so gently in the oil until it looks like it is thinking about going golden. Let it color lightly, and then add the oregano to taste, and spill in a cup of white wine. Let it reduce for a few seconds, and add the mussels. Cover for about three to four minutes, until the mussels have opened. Meanwhile, cook the pasta, and add immediately to the mussels. Toss and serve with a drizzle of olive oil and a squeeze of lemon.