Every once in a while it happens that after walking down road A, year after dependable year, road B comes into view and you gotta shake up the house, and make a change.  I always used to make my tiramisu by whisking egg yolks, sugar and vin santo over a bagna maria (a pot of simmering water) until it tripled in volume, and was hot to the touch when you shoved your finger right into the middle of the bowl.  Next to the pan, was an ice bath, and as soon as the zabaglione was ready, I would continue to whisk until it was cool along the outside of the bowl.  Then whipped cream and mascarpone folded in and layers of espresso dipped ladies’ fingers.  But then, I started thinking, if the rest of the world is getting along fine without cooking their eggs, then why maybe I outta give it a try.  Sure enough, it comes out like a dream.  For every 500 grams of mascarpone, use 8 eggs, separated.  Whisk the yolks with half a cup of sugar, being sure to whisk the sugar in a steady stream, and until the mixture is light and smooth.  Whisk a little of it into the mascarpone, to lighten that up as well, then another little bit, and finally the last bit.  Beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until just beginning to hold a soft peak.  Fold that in.  Make a pot of espresso.  Pour it into a wide flat dish with sides and add sugar to taste.   Give it a good spill of vin santo or marsala, maybe 2 parts coffee to 1 part liquor.  Quickly dip in the ladies’ fingers and then layer them in a 10 or 12 inch dish.  Pour over half the creamy stuff.  Another layer of ladies’ fingers and then the rest of the creamy.  Sift unsweetened, dutch process cocoa over the top and serve.

The ladies have gone to Deruta today, and they might come home with just the dish for whichever road they choose to wander.