Every Wednesday the entire square of Umbertide is covered with fruits, vegetables, the salted fish called bakala, fresh fish, the best parmesan and pecorino and honey you can buy, and right in the middle, a whole roasted pig being sliced up for porchetta rolls. Canteloupes the size of grapefruits were the feature this week, and after they handed me a list with melons on the top, all my ladies took off for the secondary, but ever critical part of the market, featuring underpants, pencils, tableclothes, pocketbooks, and live chickens. I suggested they buy one of those handy trailers that you can hook up to the back of your tractor to get the stuff back home, but we couldn’t find one that we liked. After making cantucci and cakes at the local bakery, we are just going to relax for the rest of the day. Maybe a massage, maybe a gelato, maybe a glass of wine. Maybe another massage, and another gelato.