The last day of Le Marche was in Urbania.  There is a mummy museum which I don’t recommend (too many mummies) located in an old church, with a very much alive young man available for guided tours.  There is also a much lovelier ducal palace, a small city of arched stone walkways, and in a tiny piazza nearly hidden from view, a bottega of exquisitely hand painted ceramics called Ceramica Casteldurante.  We breathed heavily in there for a while, dreamed of buying whatever we could bench press, bought whatever we could realistically glue into the hems of our skirts and went to lunch.  Osteria di Cucco is at the edge of the community gardens in Urbania, and at the foot of a hill.  It is said that when there were guests at the ducal palace, they would flood the streets of Urbania to float the guests to this same place.  We walked with no trouble and ate tulip shaped savory pastries filled sautéed herbs from the garden topped topped with flower petals, homemade crepes stuffed with eggplant, hand rolled ravioli with tiny cherry tomatoes and a salad  of slivers of Parmesan, prosciutto, and trevise.
We swam in the pool to recover, then seared off osso bucco, onions, garlic, the tiniest piece of carrot with a bit of parsley and gave it all a great pour of Olpe red wine and homemade vegetable stock.  We let that simmer for a few hours until the meat fell from the bone and served it with carbonara made with a slice per person of sauteed, diced guanciale (cured pig cheeks) dropped on top of 3/4 of a pound of hot al dente pasta, and immediately stirred around with a previously mixed bowl of a drop of cream, grated Parmesan, a spill of the hot cooking water from the pasta, blended drop by drop with an egg yolk per person. 

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