There is always a fear–the thinnest sliver when my husband has been gone from home–that he won’t remember me when he comes back. It is for no good reason, but I lie awake with it torturing me the night before his plane is supposed to land, so there is only one thing to do. Make soup.
The squash is just beginning to show itself at the farmer’s market. Slice two whole butternut squash in half, drizzle with your best olive oil, and sprinkle with kosher salt. Set it in the oven at 350 degrees, and roast until it is completely soft. Meanwhile, peel and dice about three or four yukon potatoes and one small onion. Get two or three cloves of garlic going in a heavy bottomed frying pan, the garlic just sliced across the middle, add a few sprigs of marjoram and one of thyme. Scatter the onion around the pan and be sure there is enough olive oil so that all of the onion is coated. Season with salt and about three red pepper flakes. When the onion is soft, and I mean beautifully, melting soft, add the potatoes. Stir them around a bit, then let them brown a little on the bottom. Scrape up the bits with a metal spatula, add a little water, a little salt, and then perch the cover of the pan on top so that it allows some air to escape. When the potatoes are done, taste for salt and give them a few grinds of freshly ground pepper. Add the squash, that has been removed from it’s skin, and try not to break it up too much when you mix it into the potato. Add enough water to ease everything from the pan, but it should be quite thick. Make some croutons (I like long, thin, diagonal slices) from a loaf of good Italian or French bread by toasting them in the oven, and melting some parmesan on top. Serve on top of the soup.