Whatever you do when you get off the plane at Fiumicino and you are trying to get yourself to Terontola, don’t let them send you via Orte instead of Roma Termini.  It will take four extra hours, and when you get to Orte starving, because there is nothing to be had worth eating at the train station bar at Fiumicino, you will be cursing the overfilled, overprocessed piece of dough that they have no right calling a cornetto.  Go to Roma Termini.  If you have a few minutes to spare between trains, exit the station on the left before entering the bit with the shops (tracks behind you).  Cross the crazy street, and on the right corner there is a bar that will give you a cornetto flaky on the outside, creamy on the inside and a cappuccino that will pour Italy back into your wanting heart. 

It is hot and beautiful here and there are strawberries in full bloom this morning when I went out to check the garden, the world once more witness to my legs after a long hibernation.